What is Chainmaille?
Chainmaille is the art of interlocking metal rings (jump rings) in patterned weaves. Historically used for armor, today it’s also a popular jewelry technique producing intricate bracelets, earrings, and more.
| Tool / Material |
Use |
Notes |
| Jump Rings |
Main component; circular metal rings |
Aluminum, stainless, niobium, copper |
| Two Pliers |
Used to open and close rings |
Flat-nose or chain-nose preferred |
| Beading Mat / Tray |
Keeps rings from rolling away |
Optional, but helpful |
| Awl or Scribe |
Align rings while weaving |
Useful for tight weaves |
| Clasps & Findings |
For turning weaves into jewelry |
Lobster, toggle, or magnetic clasps |
Jump Ring Specs
| Term |
Description |
Notes |
| Inner Diameter (ID) |
Size of hole inside the ring |
Measured in mm or inches |
| Wire Gauge (WG) |
Thickness of the wire |
Higher gauge = thinner wire |
| Aspect Ratio (AR) |
ID ÷ wire diameter |
Determines what weaves are possible |
| Material |
Aluminum, stainless, copper, etc. |
Affects weight, colour, and strength |
Common Weave Types
| Weave Name |
AR Range |
Style |
Notes |
| European 4-in-1 |
3.6–4.2 |
Flat |
Traditional armor style |
| Byzantine |
3.5–4.2 |
Round/Segmented |
Popular for bracelets, decorative |
| Box Chain |
4.0–4.5 |
Square/3D |
Dense, structured design |
| Half Persian 4-in-1 |
5.0–6.0 |
Chain |
Sleek and slanted |
| Full Persian 6-in-1 |
5.5–6.5 |
Round rope |
Heavy and symmetrical |
| Mobius Ring |
Any |
Spiral loop |
Easy and decorative |
| Dragon Scale |
4.0+ |
Layered/Scale |
Advanced, double-ring weave |
| Japanese 12-in-2 |
4.0–5.0 |
Grid |
Geometric, often used with multiple sizes |
Choosing the Right Ring Size
| Project Type |
Recommended ID / WG |
Material Suggestion |
| Bracelets |
4–6 mm ID, 18–20 gauge |
Aluminum or enameled copper |
| Earrings |
3–5 mm ID, 20–22 gauge |
Lightweight materials |
| Necklaces |
5–7 mm ID, 18–20 gauge |
Mix of strong and light rings |
| Armor / Costumes |
6–8 mm ID, 16–18 gauge |
Aluminum or stainless steel |
Open vs. Closed Rings
| Ring Type |
Description |
Use Case |
| Saw-Cut Rings |
Precision-cut, smooth closure |
Best for professional jewelry |
| Machine-Cut Rings |
Affordable, quick production |
Great for practice or costume work |
| Hand-Cut Rings |
Made by the crafter |
Custom sizes or materials |
Beginner Project Ideas
| Project |
Weave Used |
Notes |
| Simple Bracelet |
Byzantine or Box |
Good introduction to pattern following |
| Mobius Earrings |
Mobius |
Fast, elegant design |
| Keychain Fob |
Full Persian |
Great for practicing round weaves |
| European Coaster |
Euro 4-in-1 |
Teaches flat, repeating patterns |
| Pendant Accent |
Japanese 6-in-1 |
Combine with charms or beads |
Tips for Success
| Tip |
Why It Helps |
| Use two identical pliers |
Ensures better grip and alignment |
| Always open rings side-to-side |
Maintains ring shape |
| Check aspect ratio before starting |
Not all rings work with all weaves |
| Work over a tray or mat |
Prevents lost rings |
| Pre-close some rings |
Speeds up complex weaves |
| Store weaves by project |
Prevents mix-ups in ring sizes |
FAQ
What’s the best metal for beginners?
Anodized aluminum—it’s lightweight, affordable, and easy to open/close.
Can I make my own rings?
Yes—with wire and mandrels. Use flush cutters or a jeweler’s saw for best results.
Do I need special pliers?
Flat-nose or chain-nose jewelry pliers without teeth are ideal to avoid scratching.
How do I stop rings from opening?
Use saw-cut rings and close with precision. Tumble polish finished items for added strength.