What is Chainmaille?

Chainmaille is the art of interlocking metal rings (jump rings) in patterned weaves. Historically used for armor, today it’s also a popular jewelry technique producing intricate bracelets, earrings, and more.

Tools & Materials

Tool / Material Use Notes
Jump Rings Main component; circular metal rings Aluminum, stainless, niobium, copper
Two Pliers Used to open and close rings Flat-nose or chain-nose preferred
Beading Mat / Tray Keeps rings from rolling away Optional, but helpful
Awl or Scribe Align rings while weaving Useful for tight weaves
Clasps & Findings For turning weaves into jewelry Lobster, toggle, or magnetic clasps

Jump Ring Specs

Term Description Notes
Inner Diameter (ID) Size of hole inside the ring Measured in mm or inches
Wire Gauge (WG) Thickness of the wire Higher gauge = thinner wire
Aspect Ratio (AR) ID ÷ wire diameter Determines what weaves are possible
Material Aluminum, stainless, copper, etc. Affects weight, colour, and strength

Common Weave Types

Weave Name AR Range Style Notes
European 4-in-1 3.6–4.2 Flat Traditional armor style
Byzantine 3.5–4.2 Round/Segmented Popular for bracelets, decorative
Box Chain 4.0–4.5 Square/3D Dense, structured design
Half Persian 4-in-1 5.0–6.0 Chain Sleek and slanted
Full Persian 6-in-1 5.5–6.5 Round rope Heavy and symmetrical
Mobius Ring Any Spiral loop Easy and decorative
Dragon Scale 4.0+ Layered/Scale Advanced, double-ring weave
Japanese 12-in-2 4.0–5.0 Grid Geometric, often used with multiple sizes

Choosing the Right Ring Size

Project Type Recommended ID / WG Material Suggestion
Bracelets 4–6 mm ID, 18–20 gauge Aluminum or enameled copper
Earrings 3–5 mm ID, 20–22 gauge Lightweight materials
Necklaces 5–7 mm ID, 18–20 gauge Mix of strong and light rings
Armor / Costumes 6–8 mm ID, 16–18 gauge Aluminum or stainless steel

Open vs. Closed Rings

Ring Type Description Use Case
Saw-Cut Rings Precision-cut, smooth closure Best for professional jewelry
Machine-Cut Rings Affordable, quick production Great for practice or costume work
Hand-Cut Rings Made by the crafter Custom sizes or materials

Beginner Project Ideas

Project Weave Used Notes
Simple Bracelet Byzantine or Box Good introduction to pattern following
Mobius Earrings Mobius Fast, elegant design
Keychain Fob Full Persian Great for practicing round weaves
European Coaster Euro 4-in-1 Teaches flat, repeating patterns
Pendant Accent Japanese 6-in-1 Combine with charms or beads

Tips for Success

Tip Why It Helps
Use two identical pliers Ensures better grip and alignment
Always open rings side-to-side Maintains ring shape
Check aspect ratio before starting Not all rings work with all weaves
Work over a tray or mat Prevents lost rings
Pre-close some rings Speeds up complex weaves
Store weaves by project Prevents mix-ups in ring sizes

FAQ

What’s the best metal for beginners?
Anodized aluminum—it’s lightweight, affordable, and easy to open/close.

Can I make my own rings?
Yes—with wire and mandrels. Use flush cutters or a jeweler’s saw for best results.

Do I need special pliers?
Flat-nose or chain-nose jewelry pliers without teeth are ideal to avoid scratching.

How do I stop rings from opening?
Use saw-cut rings and close with precision. Tumble polish finished items for added strength.