What is Reverse Appliqué?
Reverse appliqué is a sewing technique where layers of fabric are sewn together and then portions of the top layers are cut away to reveal the fabric underneath, creating intricate designs and textures.
Item |
Description |
Notes |
Sewing Needle |
Sharp hand-sewing or machine needle |
Size depends on fabric weight |
Fabric Scissors |
Sharp scissors for clean cutting |
Precision cutting for detail work |
Pins or Clips |
Holds fabric layers in place |
Use to avoid shifting while sewing |
Fabric Layers |
Multiple fabrics with contrasting colours |
Cotton, silk, linen, or blends |
Marking Tools |
Fabric chalk or water-soluble pens |
For drawing cutting lines |
Embroidery Hoop |
Optional, for hand stitching |
Helps keep fabric taut |
Suitable Fabric Types
Fabric Type |
Best For |
Notes |
Cotton |
Beginner-friendly projects |
Easy to cut and sew |
Silk |
Elegant, delicate designs |
Handle with care |
Linen |
Textured, rustic look |
Durable and breathable |
Denim |
Bold, sturdy appliqué |
Requires stronger needles |
Felt |
No-fray edges, thick texture |
Good for decorative appliqué |
Reverse Appliqué Techniques
Technique |
Description |
Use Case |
Layer Stitch & Cut |
Stitch layers together, then cut top fabric |
Basic reverse appliqué |
Raw Edge Cutaway |
Cut edges left raw for frayed texture |
Rustic or boho style |
Decorative Stitching |
Use blanket, satin, or zigzag stitches around cut edges |
Adds durability and decoration |
Multiple Layer Reveal |
Several fabric layers cut in patterns |
Complex, multi-dimensional designs |
Machine vs. Hand Stitch |
Machine for speed; hand for detail |
Depends on project requirements |
Common Stitch Styles
Stitch Name |
Description |
Purpose |
Running Stitch |
Simple straight stitches |
Securing layers |
Blanket Stitch |
Looping edge stitch |
Finishing cut edges |
Satin Stitch |
Dense, close zigzag stitches |
Covers raw edges, decorative |
Zigzag Stitch |
Stretchy, flexible edge finish |
Prevents fraying |
Backstitch |
Strong, tight stitches |
Reinforces design |
Step-by-Step Reverse Appliqué Process
Step |
Action |
Tips |
1 |
Layer fabrics with top fabric on top |
Use contrasting colours for impact |
2 |
Mark design outlines on top fabric |
Use fabric chalk or washable pen |
3 |
Stitch along design lines securing layers |
Keep stitches even and close |
4 |
Carefully cut away sections of top fabric |
Use sharp scissors for precision |
5 |
Finish edges with decorative stitching |
Prevent fraying and enhance design |
6 |
Press finished piece with iron |
Use appropriate heat for fabrics |
Project Ideas
Project Type |
Fabrics Used |
Suggested Stitching |
Notes |
Wall Art |
Cotton & linen |
Running stitch + satin stitch |
Great for abstract shapes |
Pillow Covers |
Cotton & felt |
Blanket stitch |
Adds texture and contrast |
Clothing Decoration |
Silk & denim |
Satin stitch + zigzag |
Use sparingly for accents |
Tote Bags |
Denim & cotton |
Machine zigzag |
Durable and decorative |
Quilts |
Multiple cotton layers |
Hand stitching |
Adds depth and dimension |
Care & Maintenance Tips
Tip |
Reason |
Hand wash or gentle machine wash |
Protects fabric edges and stitches |
Use mild detergent |
Avoids damaging fibers or colours |
Avoid bleach |
Prevents fabric weakening |
Air dry or tumble dry low heat |
Preserves appliqué integrity |
Iron carefully |
Use pressing cloth to avoid damage |
FAQ
Can reverse appliqué be done on stretchy fabrics?
It is possible but more challenging; use stabilizers and stretch stitches.
Is hand stitching better than machine stitching?
Hand stitching offers precision for detailed work; machine stitching is faster.
How do I prevent edges from fraying?
Use decorative stitches like blanket or satin stitch, or apply fabric stabilizers.
Can I combine reverse appliqué with other techniques?
Yes, it pairs well with embroidery, quilting, and patchwork.