Soap Making Cheatsheet
Essential Soap Making Tools
| Tool Category | Basic Tools | Advanced Tools | Price Range | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Safety Equipment | Safety goggles, gloves, apron | Face shield, respirator mask | $20-80 | Lye handling protection |
| Measuring | Digital scale, measuring cups | Precision scale (0.1g), graduated cylinders | $25-150 | Accurate measurements critical |
| Mixing | Silicone spatulas, wooden spoons | Immersion blender, stand mixer | $15-200 | Achieving proper trace |
| Temperature | Infrared thermometer | Dual thermometer, temp gun | $15-60 | Monitoring oil and lye temps |
| Molding | Silicone loaf molds | Individual cavity molds, wooden molds | $20-100 | Shaping and sizing bars |
| Cutting | Sharp knife, ruler | Soap cutter, beveler, wire cutter | $25-150 | Professional finishing |
Base Oil Properties
| Oil Type | SAP Value | Hardness | Cleansing | Conditioning | Lather | Usage Rate |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Coconut Oil | 0.178 | High | High | Low | Big bubbles | 15-30% |
| Palm Oil | 0.141 | High | Low | Low | Stable | 20-40% |
| Olive Oil | 0.134 | Low | Low | High | Creamy | 30-80% |
| Castor Oil | 0.128 | Low | Low | High | Conditioning | 5-15% |
| Sweet Almond | 0.136 | Low | Low | High | Conditioning | 10-30% |
| Shea Butter | 0.128 | Medium | Low | High | Creamy | 5-25% |
| Cocoa Butter | 0.137 | High | Low | Medium | Stable | 5-15% |
| Avocado Oil | 0.133 | Low | Low | High | Conditioning | 10-30% |
Lye Safety and Calculations
| Lye Type | Chemical Name | SAP Factor | Water Ratio | Safety Level | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) | Caustic Soda | Variable by oil | 25-40% of oil weight | Extreme caution | Hard bar soap |
| Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) | Caustic Potash | Variable by oil | 25-35% of oil weight | Extreme caution | Liquid soap, shaving soap |
Superfat Percentages
| Soap Type | Recommended Superfat | Skin Type | Benefits | Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Facial Soap | 5-8% | Sensitive, dry | Extra moisturizing | May reduce lather |
| Body Soap | 3-5% | Normal skin | Balanced cleansing | Standard recommendation |
| Cleaning Bars | 0-2% | Heavy duty use | Maximum cleansing | Can be drying |
| Baby Soap | 6-8% | Delicate skin | Gentle, moisturizing | Mild formulation |
| Shaving Soap | 2-5% | Shaving preparation | Protective barrier | Stable lather needed |
Common Soap Making Methods
| Method | Time Required | Skill Level | Temperature | Advantages | Disadvantages |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cold Process | 4-6 weeks cure | Intermediate | 80-120°F | Full control, natural process | Long cure time |
| Hot Process | 1-2 weeks cure | Advanced | 160-200°F | Faster usable soap | Less smooth finish |
| Melt & Pour | Immediate use | Beginner | 120-140°F | Safe, quick, easy | Limited customization |
| Rebatching | 2-4 weeks cure | Intermediate | 160-180°F | Fix failed batches | Rustic appearance |
| Liquid Soap | 1-4 weeks dilution | Advanced | Variable | Versatile end product | Complex process |
Essential Oil Usage Rates
| Essential Oil | Usage Rate | Skin Safety | Scent Strength | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lavender | 0.5-3% | Generally safe | Medium | Relaxing, versatile |
| Tea Tree | 0.1-1% | Use sparingly | Strong | Antimicrobial properties |
| Peppermint | 0.1-0.5% | Can be sensitizing | Very strong | Cooling effect |
| Lemon | 0.5-2% | Photosensitizing | Medium | Fresh, citrusy |
| Eucalyptus | 0.2-1% | Use with caution | Strong | Clarifying, medicinal |
| Rose Geranium | 0.5-2% | Generally safe | Medium | Floral, balancing |
| Frankincense | 0.5-3% | Generally safe | Medium | Luxurious, grounding |
Colourants and Additives
| Additive Type | Usage Rate | Effect | Mixing Stage | Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mica Powder | 1-2 tsp per lb | Shimmer, colour | At trace | Mix thoroughly to avoid clumps |
| Titanium Dioxide | 1-2 tsp per lb | White colour | Pre-dispersed in oil | Prevents glycerin rivers |
| Iron Oxides | 1-3 tsp per lb | Earth tones | At trace | Natural, stable colours |
| Clays | 1-3 tbsp per lb | Exfoliation, colour | At trace | Bentonite, kaolin, rhassoul |
| Oatmeal | 1-2 tbsp per lb | Gentle exfoliation | At trace | Grind for finer texture |
| Honey | 1-2 tbsp per lb | Moisturizing | At trace | May accelerate trace |
| Milk Powders | 1-2 tbsp per lb | Creamy lather | Replace water portion | Goat milk, coconut milk |
Trace Stages
| Trace Stage | Description | Appearance | Best For | Timing |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Light Trace | Thin pudding consistency | Slight trail when drizzled | Swirling, layering | 2-5 minutes |
| Medium Trace | Thicker pudding | Clear trail holds briefly | Most recipes | 5-10 minutes |
| Heavy Trace | Thick cake batter | Trail holds shape | Embedding objects | 10-15 minutes |
| False Trace | Temporary thickening | Looks thick but thins out | Temperature issue | Variable |
Troubleshooting Common Issues
| Problem | Possible Causes | Solutions | Prevention |
|---|---|---|---|
| Soap Won’t Trace | Low temperature, insufficient mixing | Blend longer, check temperatures | Proper temp matching |
| Soap Seizes | Fragrance acceleration, too much lye | Hot process method | Test fragrances first |
| Separation | False trace, temperature issues | Rebatch or hot process | Monitor temperatures |
| Lye Pockets | Insufficient mixing | Safety issue - discard | Thorough mixing essential |
| Ash on Top | Exposure to air during cure | Cosmetic only, can plane off | Cover during gel phase |
| Cracking | Overheating, too much liquid | Lower temperatures, reduce water | Insulation control |
| Soft Bars | Too much soft oils, high superfat | Longer cure, recipe adjustment | Balance hard/soft oils |
Curing and Storage
| Curing Stage | Duration | Environment | What’s Happening | Quality Indicators |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Initial Set | 12-48 hours | Warm, undisturbed | Saponification completing | Firm enough to unmold |
| Early Cure | 1-2 weeks | Cool, dry, ventilated | Water evaporation begins | Hardening, pH dropping |
| Standard Cure | 4-6 weeks | Consistent conditions | Continued water loss | Mild pH, hard bars |
| Extended Cure | 6+ months | Proper storage | Ongoing improvement | Premium quality, longevity |
pH Testing and Safety
| Testing Method | pH Range | Interpretation | Action Required |
|---|---|---|---|
| pH Strips | 7-10 | Quick reference | Rough guidance only |
| Digital pH Meter | 8-10 | Accurate reading | Calibrate regularly |
| Zap Test | N/A | Tongue test (experienced only) | Never for beginners |
| Phenolphthalein | Colour change | Detects excess lye | Professional method |
Business Considerations
| Aspect | Home Use | Small Business | Commercial Scale | Regulatory Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Insurance | Optional | Recommended | Required | Product liability coverage |
| Labeling | Basic ingredients | FDA compliance | Full disclosure | INCI names required |
| Testing | Personal preference | Stability testing | Third-party testing | Safety assessments |
| Batch Records | Good practice | Essential | Legally required | Traceability systems |
| Facility | Kitchen OK | Dedicated space | Commercial kitchen | Health department approval |
Recipe Formulation Guidelines
| Recipe Component | Percentage Range | Function | Examples |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hard Oils | 40-60% | Structure, hardness | Coconut, palm, cocoa butter |
| Soft Oils | 30-50% | Conditioning | Olive, sweet almond, avocado |
| Specialty Oils | 5-20% | Unique properties | Castor, jojoba, argan |
| Water | 25-38% of oil weight | Dissolving lye | Distilled water preferred |
| Lye | Calculated amount | Saponification | Always use soap calculator |
| Fragrance | 0.5-3% | Scent | Essential oils, fragrance oils |
| Additives | 1-5% | Enhancement | Colours, exfoliants, botanicals |